[Jess Writes] Beer & Dancing Pony Festival

June 9th, 2009

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Upon arrival into Granada, Nicaragua it was loud. A cacophony of
amplified sound attempting to make as much noise as possible. Latin
Americans are really good at making noise.

We happened upon what we decided was a Beer and Dancing Pony
festival. Granada is a pretty colonial city and this event centered
around the main plaza and down straight past our hostel to the lake.
Hundreds of horses pranced in all their tassled and studded finery
down the cobblestoned streets. Revellers embraced Tona beers (event
sponsors) and even the cowboys clutched cans of beers atop the horses.

It was a great visual and aural spectacle. Whirling street performers,
café tables on streets and locals dragged out their rocking chairs to
the street to be amongst the action.

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Later that night we discovered that the festival was actually a
national police celebration and most of the horse riders were in fact
police from all over the country. I wish we knew that we would’ve felt
a little safer in the crowds perhaps.

Now we are relaxing in a lovely homely hostel and preparing for a look
at some volcanoes and a stay in a jungle lodge.

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All Scuba-ed Out

June 4th, 2009

We finished our diving today with two “free fun dives” that were offered as part of our PADI Open Water course.

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Fittingly, the final dive was the most enjoyable owing to the large amount of interesting coral and fishies. Choppy waves at the surface not so enjoyable, but the dramamine anti-nausea tablets worked splendidly.

I’m not in a huge rush to do any more diving just yet – it’s already starting to feel a bit “same old”, and quite a bit of effort goes into the actual prepare, boat, gear up, dive, return, clean up process. I expect after a break and a different location we’ll be keen to do it again.

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So with that in mind, we’re leaving the island tomorrow morning. The group of 6 has successfully reconvened, and we’re heading South to Nicaragua. It’s probably going to be a long and painful series of buses to get there; and there doesn’t seem to be much worth stopping at along the way.

We’ll be leaving the Caribean shores to visit the Pacific coast. Should actually be some sand there, and some surfing, but the cold water might be a shock.

I still haven’t managed to shake my “in a rush” attitude toward life. If anything, around here I’d be better off deliberately killing time and drawing things out because the time supply is so plentiful, and activities in the heat of the day tiresome.

So after a couple of hours just now drinking coffee, reading books and enjoying the trade winds, I’m feeling good about keeping the pace slow. But am fully aware that I’m only pretending to not be in a rush. It’s a lifelong habit that will die hard, or perhaps not at all.

Utila is a strange place. The Hondurans who live here are in some respects immigrants in their own land. The Bay Islands (including Utila) were settled by the British who did their thing relocating / slaughtering the natives, and for a long time controlled the territory until Honduras decided it belonged to them.

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The Brits made it successful enough to create jobs which encouraged Honduran “immigration” to the islands, which continues today.

The noticeable upshots are that most transactions are conducted in English, things generally work as advertised (no mean feat in Cerntral America), and backpackers dominate the culture.

No doubt it’s very easy as an anglo to spend time here – and I’m sure once the cultural and language barriers return as we proceed we’ll notice how easy things have been this week.

Now to head over to the Argentine food vendor for an authentic choripan; it takes me right back to the promenade in Puerto Madero. We’re going to BYO a pile of brocoli that we sourced last night. Nice.

Bar Babalú

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Our regular night time hangout featured an “aquarium” carved out of the dock, where all manner of marine life swam in and out to entertain the drinkers.

Our favorites were the elusive colour changing octopus (“Octo”), and the somewhat scary stonefish who almost never moved, and could only be discerned by the red-eye giveaway from flash photography:

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Terremotos & Tales from the Islands

May 30th, 2009

What a great sounding word, “terremoto” – it means earthquake and we had one. A big one, magnitude 7.1.

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At the time (2am) we were staying some 200km+ away in Livingston, Guatemala, and the two storey wooden structure we were sleeping in swayed in a reasonably terrifying manner. A few mild aftershocks meant we ceartainly didn’t get any more sleep from then until our 5am wakeup to continue onto Honduras and the Bay Islands.

That was a hellish day actually – primarily because of the lack of information available in the afternath of the quake. In hindsight I find it fascinating just how much misinformation people are prepared to create and spread when they’re excited about something.

We heard wild tales of collapsed bridges, canceled ferry services, devastated towns, cities, islands, and that the epicentre of the quake was in fact our intended destination; the island of Utila.

In some respects these turned out to be semi-accurate. There was indeed a collapsed bridge, although the other, primary bridge next to it was intact. We were held at the Honduran border for over an hour while they “inspected the next bridge”; i.e. waited for a bribe to get things moving again.

The epicentre was in fact quite close to Utila; around 50km off the coast. But Utila looks completely undamaged – I cannot find any trace of it at all.

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Needless to say, despite all protestations to the contrary, the ferry was running as scheduled and in spite of all the delays from bad roads and bueracracy we arrived in time to catch it and arrived on the tropical paradise of Utila around 13 hours after we left that morning. Like I said; killer day.

After checking into a place with aircon and a pool, we’re in much better shape this morning. This place is wealthy, touristy and comparatively expensive, but the availability of comfort and drinkable coffee has proved too tempting to resist. We will stay a few days at least, and as the group reconvenes will look at getting some time on the private island.

Finca El Paraiso

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One other highlight from Guatemala was the hot spring waterfall, Finca El Paraiso. After an hour of hellish, hot cramped-ness on the chicken bus we arrived and bathed in the scalding waters from the waterfall which emptied into a (comparatively) cool river. Definitely an amazing and unique experience.

A truly beautiful setting, we managed to enter what we call the “spa zone”, which is where after an hour or so, you come to the conclusion that you need never leave, such is the level of comfort and relaxation.

We did spend a few hours there, and would certainly have stayed another six had we not needed to relive the chicken bus nightmare (this time with heavy duty roadworks, sorry, road creation) to get back to Rio Dulce that evening. The juxtaposition of paraiso and the chicken bus probably contributes to the vividness of the memory.

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In Guatemala

May 25th, 2009

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Big difference once you cross the border from Belize. The road becomes gravel, for starters. They burn stuff, lots of it. People are, on average, about a foot shorter. Still lots of reggae music though.

It was my turn for gastro about 3 hours into the bus trip, and I offered quite a spectacle out the side window from my seat. Much like Jess’ bout it took me out for almost 24 hours, which consequently meant we didn’t get much done here until today.

Today was Mayan ruins; Tikal. My first ruins, actually. 2700 years ago they were lugging stone up a hill in some truly incredible sunshine. You have to respect the Maya for that reason alone.

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We stumped up the extra cash for lake views & aircon as the afternoon heat here on the island of Flores is intense. At AUD$32 for the double we’re happy that it’s not breaking the bank.

We split with the other four crew members because our lost day(s) to sickness have broken the schedule a little. We will probably catch them when they return from down south and head up the coast in Honduras.

UPDATE:
Now we’re in Rio Dulce, and from our bungalow we can row up the stream and it looks a bit like this:
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Verrrry nice. Fearsome mosquitos, though. For the geo-nerds, we are right here.

Belize Karaoke

May 23rd, 2009

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Ripped out “My Sharona” and “Mustang Sally” at the local Belizean karaoke bar last night. Ace. Juxtaposted against the power ballads that were otherwise on offer.

Jess is better today after being laid out for 24 hours yesterday, so we’re boating back to Belize City and bussing down to Guatemala. First “proper” Central America bus trip, should be interesting. And bumpy.

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Will be away from the beach for a while, I guess until we reach Honduras. Wonder if it might get a bit cold up in the hills; and hopefully not to mosquito-ey. Given how heavy my pack is, surely there are some warm clothes in there somewhere…