Archive for November, 2009


Wednesday, November 25th, 2009


I’m sitting at our hotel waiting for a lift to the airport. We’re enjoying our first beer in 5 days to celebrate an excellent “local” experience: A bike ride with a group of 50+ riders down to the Dead Sea coast.

It’s a nice way to end our brief Jordanian adventure – there’s been a bit too much tourist oriented activity. Our laziness once again prevented us from lining up any couchsurf hosts to hang out with, so this was an excellent way to speak to some locals and share a little of their perspective.

The Tareef cycling club bussed us all down to a quiet spot around 30km from the Dead Sea coast (Amman being a suicidal place to start a ride) gave us bikes, helmets and drinks, and off we tootled mostly downhill to the Dead Sea, ending up some 400m below sea level which, actually, is the lowest point on Earth.


We finished up with a sunset fire to cook up some kebap and drink sweet tea. Turns out Googling for “cyling jordan” was one of the more useful things I’ve done in the last week. It was great to be back on a bike (and quite a nice bike) after such a long time. Again, cycling really is something I’ve missed on this trip. You can check out the full route – be sure to select “Elevation Profile” from the “Show” menu.

Arabic script fascinates me. Actually all non-latin scripts fascinate me; each time we land in a country with a script I haven’t seen before I do get a bit excited.


Right now I’m watching a news ticker flash across the bottom of the TV screen; probably some sort of finance news. The Arabic script is interspersed with Western numbers (i.e. the kind you and I are used to). Because Arabic is read right to left, the ticker moves across the screen from left to right – the opposite of what you’d see in English language broadcasts.

Now figure this: Western numbers are, of course, read left to right. So try to imagine your eyes following text from right to left, but having to read every number sandwiched in there from left to right. Then resuming your regular right to left reading. It confounds me. Although it’s a good illustration of how we read numbers as whole units rather than by compositing individual numerals. Same goes for words, actually.


And – if you’ll forgive me for taking this too far – what do you do if you’re writing Arabic on, say, Facebook where the text is left aligned instead of right aligned? Do you write all your words in reverse order and the reader needs to start at the bottom of the paragraph and read upward? The mind boggles!

The last couple of days we spent in Petra – apparently one of the “new” seven wonders of the world. Not particularly new, mind you, but a wonder indeed it is. There aren’t many tourist attractions that can live up to their hype – especially to a long term (and perhaps slightly jaded) traveler – but Petra really does.


Petra is an entire ancient city mostly carved out of spectacular red rock. Rather than boring you with words, let’s just take a look:




It flows perfectly, from the moment you walk in you stand in awe, until the final blow is delivered after a long hike to the monastery, a structure that is probably too astonishing for words to describe. That’s Jess at the bottom, pictured for scale:


Prior to arriving at Petra we did spend an eventful day with a taxi-cum-tour-guide traveling from Amman via various sights of historic importance including Mt Nebo, the Jordan River, Bethany (where Jesus was apparently baptised) and a quick swim in the Dead Sea. All were varyingly interesting and fun, if a little underwhelming.


Our slight crazed taxi driver pulled over on the Kings Highway next to the Dead Sea and got us to pose for a photo pretending to be stranded on the Highway after a car breakdown, attempting to hitch a lift. He must do with with all his tourists, due no doubt to the indisputable hilarity of this gag.

Here you can view his enviable artistic talents in all their glory:


Slighty less hilarious, however, was the moment some 20 minutes later when the drive shaft in his Samsung built car (really!) lunched itself. And we really did find ourselves stranded on the Kings Highway.

After 30 loud minutes on the telephone which included turning the steering wheel from lock to lock in an attempt to rectify the clearly serious (and non-steering related) problem, he admitted defeat and arranged for a perfect stranger – who had pulled over out of interest – to deliver us to our destination.

Turns out our perfect stranger / new tour guide was either blind, illiterate, or both. Not only did his vehicle seem seriously unlikely to last the distance, he managed to get repeatedly lost despite asking for direction on at least five occasions. He also mentioned that he had two wives and nine children.


Due to the aforementioned affliction(s) he was unable to read roadsigns, something we were at least able to help with given they were written in English as well as Arabic. At one point we did indeed pass a sign directing us to the Iraqi border, and not any other destination.

But, as always, we made it. And in hindsight it’s all very amusing ;-) Sound familiar?



Monday, November 16th, 2009

Sad to say, the Doner Kebab is equally rubbish in Istanbul. We’re sort of gob-smacked that this is the reality: In Turkey you really can’t get a decent kebab-in-bread-for-fast-eating. No garlic sauce (or indeed any sauce at all), miserly meat portions, flaccid lettuce and average bread. Even the use of pita bread (instead of toasted white rolls) is an optional extra! Crazy.


Well perhaps it’s not crazy – what they do very well is the sit down, full plate shish kebab. With extra chilli. I guess it’s our Western fast food mentality that created the doner kebab when the Turks arrived in Berlin and started to adopt the “faster, better, cheaper” approach.


Istanbul is exquisite, even in the rain. We really enjoyed the mosques’ minarets reaching into the sky all along the horizon, enthusiastic merchants and restaurant touts, and, well, just the mind bending magnitude of the city’s history. After trying to dig a metro rail tunnel under the mighty Bosphorus strait, historians now believe Istanbul may have been first settled some 8,000 years ago.


From a tourism perspective, this really is a city where you can easily fill your days with stuff you can’t see anywhere else. We’re staying in the traveler ghetto of Sultanahmet which, whilst undoubtedly very touristy, is smack in the middle of innumerable sites of enormous architectural and cultural significance.


What’s nice for the geo-nerd in me is that in a 30 minute / 1.5 Lira ferry trip you can leave Europe and be in Asia. Istanbul is the only city that straddles an ocean and two continents.


Istanbul’s status as a mega-city like São Paulo was of substantial interest to me. It’s orientation on major waterways and hilly terrain make the built out urban area seem to stretch into eternity. Being such an old city means that it’s predominantly low rise in the inner (and I use the term loosely) area. So the sprawl extends even further than I had imagined.

We maintained our enjoyable habit of catching up with friends in exotic places, this time having the pleasure of Georgina and Glen’s company who were just embarking on a Turkey tour.


They agreed that the laneways in the bustling Beyoğlu area make something of a mockery of Melbourne’s self appointed status as the place to go for vibrant laneways. The number and extent of the drinking and eating options (and for that matter every other service) in the laneways were a revelation. Even more so as this was our first escape from the disney-esque tourist district of Sultanahmet (complete with magic carpet photo opportunities).


Turkey also happens to be our final stop on the European continent. The European segment was never intended to be a lengthy one, and with the continual rain we’ve been hit with recently I’m glad we’re moving on.


Mediterranean Turkey

Monday, November 16th, 2009


We left the Greek islands and arrived in Bodrum, Turkey after short ferry ride. It’s a nice Mediterranean coastal town, albeit heavily trafficked by day trippers resulting in most of the nicest waterfront eateries serving full English breakfasts complete with “M&S Pork Sausage”. The prices and the views were right, though.

We arrived just in time for the national day, celebrating their emergence as a republic 86 years ago. There’s nothing like tooting horns, dancing troupes and tens of thousands of red + crescent flags to let you know you’ve arrived in Turkey.


The Turks are spectacularly nice people. Even the touts – numerous and persistent as they are – are lovely to speak to and very helpful whatever the circumstances.


Unlike Greece, Turkey seems to have no problem enforcing anti-smoking laws. Also, their bus system – both local and intercity is of probably the highest standard we’ve seen in all of our travels.

So our initial impressions of Turkey were of a very civilized and developed place – in many ways much more so than Greece, something we were not expecting.

It’s often said that Turkey has more ancient Greek ruins than Greece does, and we’re inclined to believe it. From Bodum we headed to Selçuk, which is adjacent to the ancient city of Ephesus (Efes) which is probably the most impressive and complete ancient city in the world.


We tried to ride the bicycles from our hostel to Ephesus there on a sunny afternoon, but after missing the non-existent signpost of the turn off, getting a bit lost and heading back, Jess’ bike suffered a catastrophic failure and we had to walk home. After losing another hour picking up the broken bike on the proprietor’s scooter (as fun as it sounds!) we decided to save the ruins for the next day.


Which, of course, was rainy and very cold. So our trip to Ephesus was a pretty miserable experience, although the wow-factor was still available in between umbrella thwacks and trying to comprehend the Turklish audio guide. Needless to say in the afternoon, after we had left, the weather cleared up nicely. We did get plenty of use out of the jacuzzi in our “honeymoon suite” though. Turkish wine seems quite decent, too.


A rather strange attribute of Selçuk is the prevalence of Australian themed businesses. Including where we stayed The ANZ (Australian / New Zealand) Guest House, the Canberra hotel, the Boomerang guesthouse, and numerous others. We never really received a satisfactory explanation as to why this is the case, although one theory is plain old copy-catting.

Luckily we found a cheap flight to take us onto Istanbul and avoid the overnight bus. And in fact I’m writing this on the Turkish Airlines plane as we’re about to land in Istanbul. Once we arrive I’m hoping to find higher quality Doner Kebab (which, so far, was vastly superior in Berlin) than what we’ve seen so far in Turkey.